Q. I'd like to get polished floor boards, but where do I begin ?
A. It is always good to get advice on any major improvement to your property. Floors are a major part of your home and making the right decision on floor coverings will not only add appeal and value to your property but may also save you money in both the short and long term. Polished timber floors are very practical and have a natural beauty and warmth. They can enhance the most ordinary of rooms as well as adding the finishing touch to superb decor. If you have decided to have polished timber floors, I would first check in an obscure part of your floor perhaps a corner or underneath the house, to see if you have floorboards under your existing floor coverings.

Q.Yes we have floor boards. Can we sand the floor ourselves ?
A. There are many establishments that will hire equipment to sand your floors. However, bear in mind that this equipment is constantly being used by amateurs and as a result, the machines are usually unbalanced and far from the extremely expensive state of the art machinery used by an expert floor sander. I would suggest that you seek a professional floor sander to undertake this type of work. The end result a floor that will truly add value to your property.

Q.How long will sanding our floor take?
A. As most coating systems require overnight dry times, the usual job will be a minimum of three days that is one day for each coat. This timeframe may be extended depending on the size of the job, and the type of finish used. As an estimate, most floor sanders would be able to sand an average 20 square metres / day. Remember to add the time for the coats to be applied and dry after that. A floor of 80 square metres would take 4 days to sand through to fine sanding stage and then a further two days to coat ; 6 days in total. Floor sanders who work in teams, can achieve the same result in a shorter time.

Q. How do we know if our floors are alright to sand ?
A. A quick check under your house before removing your floor coverings will give you an indication as to the condition of your boards and sub-floor structure. This will save you and the tradesperson some nasty surprises once you have removed all your floor coverings – particularly if you are purchasing a new property and intend to polish the boards. Some things to look for may be evidence of termites, water damage, presence of dampness etc. Please note that this is only a suggestion and that in most instances this process may not be necessary. There are some pictures on the site giving you some idea of the condition of some floors prior to sanding. The tradesperson who comes to estimate for you, will be the best judge.

Q. Will there be much dust ?
A. Modern floorsanding machines pick the sanding dust up extremely well, however, the dust bags must breathe and therefore a small amount of dust is always to be expected. We suggest you seal cupboards and adjoining areas if possible. Before appling the floor finish, we always dust walls, window sills and the skirting prior to vacuuming. This ensures that air movement during drying time, does not cause dust to fall into the coat. The result is a very dust free area.

Q. Will there be much smell ? and can I live at home ?
A. Yes, it will smell. Waterborne finishes are the most environmentally friendly and with the advent of some extremely hardwearing products they are an attractive alternative to the smell that solvent finishes create when applied. All solvent based finishes will generally require you to be in a well ventilated separate area if you are to stay in your home, whilst the floor is drying. However, as every job is different, please consult your tradesperson on their advice concerning your house layout or coatings used to ensure they meet your requirements.

Q. How much will it cost ?
A. The cost will vary depending on:

a) The size of your floor. You can estimate this by measuring the length and width of the room (in metres) and multiplying the two together this will give you the square metreage. A room which is 2.15 metres wide and 4.00 metres long is 8.60 square metres.

b) If your floor is old or new.

c) What type of timber you have ie. softwood, hardwood, parquetry etc.

d) Type of floor finish to be used: polyurethane, tung oil, waterborne etc.

e) Type of finish: gloss, satin or matt.

f) Sanding process involved.

There are many determining factors in creating an estimate, so be sure to be clear when ringing for estimates, exactly what you are being quoted for. Pricing can also be an indicator of workmanship, so don’t always assume the cheapest quote is the best. Word of mouth is definitely our best form of advertising.

Q. What floor finish should we use ?
A. Polyurethanes, either two pack or single pack are currently the most widely used timber floor coatings. They are extremely durable, readily available and come in a range of sheen levels – high gloss, semi-gloss, satin and matt. If your floor is newly laid, please check with your floor sander as to their recommendation for a suitable coating. It is often recommend that only waterborne, tung oil, or oil modified coatings to be used on new floors, because of their flexibility if there is likely to be movement in the timber. Our Floor Finish Comparison Guide, will soon be available from the link on this page, and it will assist you in your selection of finish.

Q. What type of gloss level should we use ?
A. The sheen (shine) level on a floor is entirely a personal choice. Factors which could affect your decision include : i) whether the areas have high light – a lot of light on a high gloss floor will cause glare; ii) Whether you clean the floor regularly – gloss floors show a lot of dust, due to their reflective nature; iii) if you have pets inside – pets nails can easily scratch the harder finishes, causing them to look worn more quickly. Currently a satin (sheen) is the most popular choice.

Q. What will I have to do to prepare the floor ?
A. You can save money by removing all existing floor coverings including tacks, staples and any smoothedge carpet strips from the floor. Remove all furniture and other items on walls, or alternatively, hang a cotton sheet over pictures and TV monitors.

Q. Once the job is complete, when can I move my furniture back ?
A. Most coating will dry overnight assuming mild weather conditions (15 to 25 degrees C) however 10 to 14 days for full curing in the case of a polyurethane is suggested by most manufacturers. During this time the coat will continue to harden, although it will not appear any different. Heavy traffic should be avoided during this period of time. Small items which remain in fixed positions may be put in place carefully provided they have protection underneath them within 3 to 5 days. Check with your tradesperson or coating manufacturer’s instructions, to make sure there is no misunderstanding on this matter as many floors are damaged in this crucial period. The number one item for scratching a newly coated floor is fridges – which have been moved back into place by the home owner.