Process

Preparation

If a room is currently carpeted, the carpet needs to be removed along with the carpet strips and underlay. Start by removing the carpet. Then pull up the underlay and carpet strip.

Floors which have a vinyl floor covering (Linoleum) may be more challenging. Depending on the amount of glue used, the lino can be difficult to remove. It the lino has been professionally installed, it should have a layer of masonite between it and the floor. If the lino is very difficult to remove, ask us about our newly developed technique for removing it.

After the previous floor covering has been removed, we then, inspect the floor for:

  • staples from the underlay
  • nails from the tackstrip
  • floor nails protruding from the floor

Our quoted price includes the following workscope:

The floor nails should be set and countersunk below the surface of the wood.

Sanding

Sanding an existing wood floor usually consists of (3 – 4) passes. Each pass is performed with a different grit of sand paper, with a final pass using a very fine 180 – 220 grit screen, depending on the type of wood being sanded. We stock sandpapers with grits of: 24, 36, 40, 60, 80, 100 and 120. Grits finer than this are replaced by screens at 150, 180 and 220 grit. The lower the grit number, the coarser the paper will feel. We select the proper combination of sandpapers needed based on the floor condition and the harndess of the timber.

Staining

If staining is required, we using one of two types of staining technique:

Type 1 – Staining floor before applying clear (polyurethane).
That is, staining is not replacing coating.

Type 2 – Mixing tint with polyurethane and it replace first coat out of a 3 coat system.

Example:
One or Two coats of stain with one coat of clear polyurethane is needed to complete a finishing job.

Finishing

Generally, finishing a hardwood floor takes three coats applied over a period of three days, however, if humidity levels are high, it could take an additional day to complete the process.

After the floors are sanded and cleaned, we apply the first coat of fast sealer to make the absorption level even (depending upon the desired finish). We allow the coat to dry one hour and when it is sufficiently dried, we apply the second coat of polyurethane. The second coat of polyurethane is applied with a fine grit sandpaper (100 – 120 grit) to knockdown the grain and to create a surface that will allow the next coat to adhere properly and allowed to dry overnight. The final coat is applied when the second coat is sufficently dried. Consequently, three coats have been applied leaving a beautiful hardwood floor that will last for years.

Curing

Allow 24 hours before subjecting to light traffic. After 24 hours of drying time, walking on the floor with bare feet is allowable. Curing of the coating will take 5 ~ 7 days and during this period, floors should not be walked on with street shoes. Furniture should be moved in at least 1 weeks after the final coating. Complete cure is achieved in 3 weeks.